Recipe of the Month: Peach Crumble

With June drawing rapidly to a close, I found myself scrambling this week for a new plant-focused dish to try as my Recipe of the Month. I had a couple on hand that I'd printed out from the New York Times' "The Veggie" newsletter, but neither of them was really June-appropriate. The asparagus in the Vegan Spring Vegetable Frittata is already past its season, and the basil in the Basil Tofu isn't yet ready for picking. So I started hunting through all our vegetarian cookbooks, and right near the end of Nava Atlas's Vegetariana, I found a recipe that I'd bookmarked ages ago but never tried: Fresh Peach Crumb Cake. 

Lavish as this title sounds, the ingredient list actually looked pretty healthful. The whole cake (billed, somewhat optimistically, as 6 to 8 servings) contained only 1/3 cup of brown sugar and 1/2 cup of melted margarine (for which we could substitute our own cheaper and marginally healthier homemade plant butter). And while it did call for 3/4 cup of white flour, it took the curse off that by adding an entire cup of wheat germ. How could a recipe with wheat germ possibly be bad for us?

There was just one problem: We didn't have any wheat germ at home, and we weren't sure where to buy it. We couldn't find any at Lidl, and a trip Brian made by bike to the nearby Shop Rite came up empty as well. We were sure they'd have it at the Whole Earth Center in Princeton, but that store's earlier hours make it harder to fit in a visit before our Thursday dance practice. Brian thought we might be able to find some at the Amish market, which we could swing by after a dance gig on Saturday. But I suggested we check our local Superfresh first, and when we located a half-pound bag there, we decided to take the $4.29 bird in the hand rather than take our chances on finding a cheaper one in the bush. This purchase, along with four fresh peaches from Lidl, gave us everything we needed to make the "cake."

I put the word "cake" in quotes because this recipe really seemed more like a crisp or a crumble. There was no batter involved, just a crumb mixture made from flour, brown sugar, finely chopped almonds, melted margarine, and baking spices. This got layered in a pan with the sliced peaches (the recipes didn't say whether to skin them first, so we put them in skins and all) and baked for 20 minutes covered in foil, then 20 minutes more uncovered. When it came out of the oven, it pretty much just looked like a pan full of crumbs, so I dished some out into one of our nice blue IKEA bowls to show it to better advantage.

If I'd been expecting this mixture of ingredients to miraculously bake up into a luscious and decadent dessert, I'd have been disappointed. Fortunately, I had no such expectation, so I was reasonably satisfied with it. It's hard to go too wrong with a fruit crisp, and while this one wasn't quite as tasty as our usual (and less healthful) recipe, it was still enjoyable, particularly topped with coconut whipped cream. It reminded me a of a dish my dad used to make called "cereal pie," which was made from all the leftover crumbs at the bottom of our cereal boxes, tossed with sugar and spice and layered with fruit. That recipe was even easier to make and probably about as healthful, with a bit more sugar but no fat whatsoever. But it only works if you have leftover cereal crumbs, and we don't eat enough packaged cereal for that these days.

Still, we're not in any great hurry to make this dessert again. We both enjoyed it well enough, but to be honest, we'd have enjoyed those nice fresh peaches almost as much if we'd just eaten them, which would be even healthier and easier. Given the cost of the ingredients and the relatively modest payoff, it doesn't seem worth the effort.