I was expecting to choose October's Recipe of the Month from the new vegan cookbook we acquired at the annual town-wide yard sale. But then, while browsing the New York Times Cooking section, I came upon an intriguing-looking recipe called "Sweet-and-Spicy Roasted Tofu and Squash." (Sorry, my stripped-down NYT subscription doesn't allow me to share the recipe as a gift link.) I showed it to Brian, and he agreed to give it a try.
For once, we didn't make any significant changes to the recipe as written. Brian's inclination was to substitute the firm tofu we had on hand for the extra-firm the recipe called for and to leave out the sriracha, since I normally don't like my food too hot. But I argued that these changes would fundamentally alter the character of the dish, and we should at least try it as written before making any major changes to it. Unfortunately, this decision made the ingredient list considerably more expensive. Instead of using a butternut squash, which we could have just gone out to the garden and picked off the vine, we had to pay $2.89 for an acorn squash. We also dropped $2.99 at Trader Joe's on a package of "super firm" tofu and $3.99 on a bottle of sriracha (although this particular purchase was probably long overdue, as we've already left sriracha out of quite a few recipes because we didn't have any). And the one change we did make to the recipe—replacing honey, which we already had, with agave nectar, which we didn't, to make the dish vegan—set us back an additional $4.75. So, not even counting the ingredients we already had in our pantry, acquiring everything we needed to prepare this dish cost us $14.62, or about three days' worth of our normal grocery budget.
Nor did our troubles end once we got the groceries home. I went into the kitchen while Brian was preparing the dish to find him struggling to get a paring knife through the tough rind of the acorn squash. The recipe didn't actually say the squash had to be peeled—it just said "cut squash into 1/2-inch thick half-moons"—but he assumed it wouldn't be edible otherwise. But when we checked the picture on the web, we saw that the squash clearly had its rind still on, and the caption at the top mentioned "a slight chew from the squash peel" as one of the dish's interesting features. Fortunately, the rest of the instructions were pretty clear, though Brian was initially a bit puzzled as to why the tofu and the squash had to be cut into such large chunks. But it became clear when he got to the step that said "Flip and roast until uniformly golden," since you can't reasonably flip a whole bunch of little pieces.
The finished dish was rather pretty to look at: big, golden-brown slices of tofu and squash, sprinkled with pale sesame seeds and green celery leaves, nestling on a bed of brown rice. (Brian also added some green beans on the side to boost the meal's veggie content.) And the taste was quite interesting too, although we both agreed that calling it "sweet-and-spicy" was a bit of an exaggeration. The squash had a natural sweetness to it, but the single tablespoon of agave didn't lend any noticeable sweetness to the sauce, and the heat from the mere half-teaspoon of sriracha was barely detectable, even to me. But it was still quite flavorful, with sweet, earthy, and salty notes all overlaid with the faintly nutty crunch of the sesame seeds.As for the texture, we found that Trader Joe's isn't kidding when they call their tofu "super firm." It was quite dense and chewy, and it didn't absorb the sauce terribly well. Also, what the recipe called "a slight chew from the squash peel" was a bit of an understatement. While the roasted peels were mostly edible, there were still tough bits that were entirely impossible to chew and had to be discarded. This was more annoying to Brian than it was to me, as he particularly dislikes having to fish inedible pieces out of his food or, worse, out of his mouth. He doesn't mind eating roast chicken off the bone, but if he's served a bowl of chicken cacciatore, he wants to be able to eat it with his fork and not have to remove anything with his fingers.
On the whole, we both rather liked the dish, and we'll probably make it again (especially now that we've already invested in the agave and the sriracha, so it won't cost nearly as much next time). However, Brian plans to tinker with the recipe a bit. For starters, he'll probably replace the acorn squash with delicata squash, which has a tender rind that should be easier to chew. He'll also use our usual firm tofu, or possibly one of the brands available at H-Mart that comes in an extra-firm variety, rather than the super-firm TJ's stuff. And he plans to try boosting both the agave and the sriracha content to bring it closer to the sweet-and-spicy flavor the recipe promised, but didn't quite deliver.
But even if we never make the dish again, we did learn two useful things from trying it. First, agave appears to be a reasonable substitute for honey, although you may need to use a bit more of it to achieve the same level of sweetness. And second, sriracha sauce is apparently mild enough for me to handle, and we both quite like it. I wouldn't go so far as to snack on pieces of matza topped with peanut butter and sriracha, as Brian has been doing ever since we opened the bottle, but I'll happily use it in any recipe that calls for hot sauce and possibly even some that don't.
