Recipe of the Month: Spicy Butternut Squash Ribbons

Back in July, I thought I might have hit on the ideal vegan coffee creamer: a blend of homemade oat milk and commercial soy milk from Lidl. But, sadly, after a few weeks of fiddling with the recipe, I couldn't come up with a version found as satisfying as the Silk Protein milk I'd been using. So, reluctantly, I went back to hitting the Stop & Shop every few weeks for a new container of Silk Protein. To get a little more value out of each trip, I'd also add a grab a copy of the store's free magazine, Savory, and flip through it looking for interesting recipes. But most of the time, I wouldn't find anything useful. 

However, the latest issue of Savory yielded one recipe that looked intriguing: Spicy Butternut Squash Ribbons with Chickpea Crumbs. Mind you, we didn't exactly need a new butternut squash recipe, since our harvest this year has been pretty small (just six Waltham squash and three tiny Honeynuts). That's barely enough to do justice to all our favorite go-to squash dishes—soufflé, pizza, lasagna, and the newly veganized version of butternut squash pasta with brown butter. But this one still looked worth trying because it was so different from those other recipes. It was a lighter, healthier dish containing almost nothing but veggies and fruit: ribbons of uncooked butternut squash topped with roasted chick peas and pomegranate seeds. We already had most of the ingredients on hand, and Brian was easily able to pick up the pomegranate and some cilantro at the Shop Rite on his bike.

The dish is pretty simple to put together. The most time-consuming part (and messy) part is extracting the seeds from the pomegranate. Slicing the butternut squash into long, thin strips also takes some time; it probably would have gone faster with our veggie spiralizer, but Brian decided to use a vegetable peeler since that's what the recipe called for. One of our smaller squash ended up yielding about enough ribbons for a half-batch of the dish. These got steeped for one hour in a marinade of olive oil, lime juice, garlic, chili pepper, and cilantro (which the recipe kept referring to as a "vinaigrette" even though it contained no actual vinegar). The one part of the recipe Brian didn't follow exactly was the instructions for the chick peas. It says to pulse them to "fine crumbs" in a food processor before roasting them, but he feared that would make too much of a mess, so he just mashed them up coarsely. They still got reasonably crisp with a 20-minute roasting, and he then sprinkled them on top of the squash ribbons along with the pomegranate seeds.

The finished dish was certainly very pretty to look at, with the bright red seeds and speckles of green cilantro against the golden ribbons of squash. Taste-wise, though, it was less impressive. Although the raw squash strips were as thin as Brian could make them with the vegetable peeler, they still came out crunchy and not very sweet, not at all like cooked squash. (If the dish had been described as a salad, maybe we wouldn't have minded the crunchy texture, but on the other hand, maybe we wouldn't have chosen to make it at all.) With the garlic, lime, cilantro, and pomegranate, the dish certainly wasn't lacking in flavor, but it didn't have the flavor we expect from butternut squash.

On the whole, this recipe was interesting as an experiment, but not really worth using up any more of our few precious butternut squash on.  The one part of the dish we might be interested in making again is the crispy chickpea crumbs, which have a nice texture and could be useful for adding a protein boost to salads or pasta dishes. But unless we get a real bumper crop of butternut squash in some future year, we'll probably stick to our tried-and-tested favorites.